November 2008 Archives

When I was hosting Fresh from the Garden, on DIY Network, we grew a lot of different kinds of vegetables. Many were the classic favorites of summer: tomatoes, green beans, corn, squash and peppers to name a few. Because all the vegetables in the garden were TV stars, they had to look their best at all times too. This put a lot of pressure on me since there are many variables outside of my control. As a gardener, you know Mother Nature always has the final word.

Although I managed to get through three years and 52 episodes with a near blemish free record, this was still a real world, working garden. I used eco-friendly practices then, just like I do today. Although that was certainly good for the environment, it did require the utmost vigilance on my part to head any potential problems early in the process. Of all the challenges a garden can throw at even the most experienced veteran, dealing with rapidly changing weather is likely the most nerve-wracking experience. Yet even then, there are a few ways to extend the season along with the pleasures of gardening that go along with it.

Anytime I knew cold weather was on the way, I’d get out my row covers as the first line of defense. These thin, lightweight covers allowed air and light in, but provide just enough insulating protection to keep those few extra degrees of precious warmth contained near the plants and in the soil. The row covers alone helped keep the frost off the leaves. Without them, my plants could have easily turned to mush.

Another trick, which had value year round, was a nice thick layer of mulch. In summer it kept the roots cool and moisture in the soil. In late fall and winter, that same mulch helped keep the warmth in the soil and prevent the ground from freezing. For cool season plants like spinach, on those extra cold nights, I’d spread a layer of mulch directly over the plants. This protected the foliage that might otherwise burn from exposure to extreme cold and wind.

Sometimes, I’d cut off the bottoms of plastic milk jugs and place the bottomless jug over small plants. I was always amazed at how well such a simple step worked to protect them. In fact, it insulated so well, I’d have to be sure to remove the jugs in the morning. Otherwise, those same shelters that protected my plants through the night might be the very things to cook them the next day.

One of my favorite ways to extend the season each winter was to plant in cold frames. If you’re not familiar with the term, just picture a big wooden box with a glass or clear plastic lid on top, such as a storm door or window frame. I’d put straw bails around it to provide extra insulation but having cold frames allowed me the opportunity to garden year round. I’d plant directly into the soil within the frame or simply put potted plants inside it. Either way, it was usually enough to keep them from freezing to death. However, just like the plastic milk jugs, I always had to be sure to vent the frame in the morning so the plants wouldn’t cook.

Finally, for a relatively carefree winter vegetable garden, I was always sure to plant plenty of cool season crops like kale, collards, turnips, Brussels sprouts and spinach. I guess if you love to garden as much as I do, you’ll do whatever you can to keep your hands in the dirt all year round, no matter where you live.

JL

Hello Fellow Garden Enthusiasts!!

I am posting on Joe's blog to let all of you know about Fiskars Project Orange Thumb grant.  The grant is available to all community groups throughout the U.S. and Canada, Australia and New Zealand.  The purpose of the grant is to provide groups with the tools and funding they need to help them acheive their community gardening goals.  Grant recipients will receive up to $1,500 in Fiskars tools along with up to $1,000 in green goods.  Applications are now available at www.projectorangethumb.com.  I am so excited to see all the applications and here about what everyone is doing in their community!  You can contact orangethumb@fiskars.com with any questions that you have regarding the grant.  Have a great holiday season! 

I’ve procrastinated as long as I can. The many non-hardy plants I’ve enjoyed most of this year will succumb to below freezing temperatures tonight unless I act now! There’s nothing like a cold north wind and fast moving front to remind me that I’m out of time to get those tender plants and tropicals off the deck or out of the ground.

Due to the popularity and the striking contribution tropical and other non-hardy plants make to any vista, chances are you too have one or more in your garden, or on your deck or balcony. The good news is you’ll have them for years to come with some good timing and a little care on your part.

The trick is to make sure you protect these cold sensitive plants before they succumb to a killing frost or freezing temperatures. All tropicals can take the heat but most are highly sensitive to cold weather. For the most tender plants, temperatures in the 40’s can do them in. Others can make it through a frost or two but take the sign of this colder weather as their signal for dormancy. In either case, don’t expect them to look very good once Jack Frost has paid a visit.

Some of the most common tropical plants include banana, caladium, elephant ear (Colocasia spp.), angel’s trumpet (Brugmansia spp.), hibiscus and one of the most popular structural plants today, New Zeland Flax (Phormium tenax).

Tropicals can be brought into a bright sunny room and grown as houseplants until next spring arrives. However, there are a couple of challenges with this scenario. First, some of these plants have such high light and humidity requirements, unless you have a virtual greenhouse, don’t expect the same lush growth and flowering. Secondly, not many of us have such a room, especially with ample space for the larger specimens.

A more practical solution for many is to store them in a near dormant state in another part of your house or outbuilding. A cool dark place, one that stays above freezing at night and hovers ideally between 40 and 50 degrees during the daytime is ideal. Common choices include unheated basements and crawl spaces, root cellars, garages and potting sheds.

For this storage option, the objective is to keep the part that grows below ground from completely drying out or freezing while allowing the above ground growth to go dormant until next spring. Here are some of the particulars.

Plants that were growing in containers outdoors can be kept in their containers when moved inside to hibernate. Tropicals that have been growing in the ground can be dug up and potted or otherwise stored in a frost-free area.

Woody plants like hibiscus and angel’s trumpet should be carefully dug and repotted in a light potting medium. The soil should stay only slightly moist but be sure to check it periodically. Don’t be alarmed if most of the leaves fall off. The goal is to keep these plants alive but not necessarily stimulate new growth.

They can be left unpruned or you can cut back a bit to accommodate space requirements. Because they grow rapidly from new wood in the spring, heavier pruning and any fertilizing should be delayed until that time.

As you remove non-woody tropicals such as cannas, caladium and elephant ears, wait until after cold weather or frost has nipped the foliage and started the process of winter dormancy. There is no need to preserve the old foliage so cut it back to within a few inches.

These plants are easy to dig up and over winter. The source of next year’s growth comes from their bulbs, corms or tubers. For best results, allow enough time to rinse them clean and air dry before storing in a cool dark place as described earlier. Then place them in a container that is well ventilated, such as a crate or basket. Lay the bulbs in peat moss, sawdust or a similar substitute and space them so they are not touching each other. The material should be light enough to allow air circulation and retain just enough moisture to prevent the bulbs from completely drying out.

A month or two before next spring approaches, you can repot the bulbs for an early start to your spring garden, or wait until after the last frost and plant them directly in the ground again. Either way, over wintering tropicals is an easy, effective and economical way to keep your plants coming back better than ever year after year.

Joe Lamp’l

Q: We have an inordinate amount of pruning to do, and need to keep our Fiskars hedge shears constantly sharp. Does the Fiskars blade sharpener recommended for the 9" blade, 22" long hedge shears? The once a year sharpening doesn't cut it for our needs.

Please advise.

Lynn Torgerson